If you are into Perpetual Calendars, chances are that H. Moser has won over your heart about a decade-and-a-half ago. That is, when they unleashed their gloriously functional and minimalistic interpretation of a perpetual calendarPerpetual Calendar A perpetual calendar is a complication in a mechanical watch that automatically adjusts for the different lengths of the months, including February, and leap years, and (almost) never requires manual adjustments. It has a mechanism that takes into account the different number of days in each month, including leap years, and automatically adjusts the date, day, month and year accordingly [Learn More]: The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar . Today, Moser released an entirely new take on the Perpetual Calendar and it comes in two hand-wound variations.
As the name suggests, the latest release finds itself within the Pioneer range, the haute horlogerie interpretation of what a sport watch should and can be. “Available in two models with bold colours: the first features the Funky Blue dial with traditional indexes and markers; the second is dressed in a brand new colour – Burgundy – and stripped of almost all indications except for the dots that mark the hours. An offset small second sits at 6 o’clock, and a power reserveRéserve de marche Also known as Power Reserve. A watch's power reserve refers to the amount of time a mechanical watch can run without being wound. The power reserve of a mechanical watch can vary depending on the size of the mainspring, the efficiency of the gear train, and the rate at which the mainspring releases energy. If a watch has a Power Reserve 'complication' it simply means that the status of the power reserve can be seen on the watch itself (either on the dial or movement side of the watch). [Learn More] indicator at 9 o’clock, along with the leap year cycle indicator, which is concealed on the movement side. “
As you will surely have noticed, there is no tiny arrow (a fantastic concept by the way) in this Perpetual Calendar which we are used to see at Moser. This release instead features “two large windows to display the date and month and two discs featuring the Flash Calendar function, which changes instantly when necessary. The date can be set at any time of the day, forwards or backwards, with no risk to the movement.” The latter is a joy to behold – trust me – and also just plain practical and a great piece of mind.
Today H. Moser comes with an entirely new Perpetual Calendar, one that is just as striking to the eye, but in a completely new package. Not only the eyes are treated to something fresh, also the heart of the watch sees the addition of the entirely new Manufacture Calibre HMC 808. First of all – it is in the Pioneer line, so this Perpetual Calendar has a 120m depth rating, yes sir.
Being a Pioneer, other than the screw down crownCrown The knob on the outside of the watch that you typically use to either wind the mainspring or set the time [Learn More] and the handy depth rating, it also features the characteristics that define the Pioneer: The curved crystal, the display caseback, the beautifully sculpted sides of the steel case and the sporty 42.8mm size. Note that due to the short lugs the Pioneer tends to wear smaller than what you would likely expect.
Currently priced at 39.900,00 CHF this is in fact a lot of bang for your buck compared to other – more expensive – instantaneous Perpetual Calendars out there from say Lange, Patek etc.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – PIONEER PERPETUAL CALENDAR MD
– Ref. 3808-1200, steel model, Burgundy fumé dial, limited to 50 pieces
– Ref. 3808-1201, steel model, Funky Blue fumé dial, limited to 50 pieces
– Case: Steel, Diameter: 42.8 mm, height (excluding sapphire crystal): 11.3 mm, Curved sapphire crystal and see-through case back
– Screw-in crown adorned with an “M” and Water-resistant to 120m
– Superluminova® hour marker dots
– Leaf-shaped hands, partially skeletonised, Superluminova® elements on hands
– HMC 808 hand-wound calibre
– Power reserve minimum 7 days, Double barrelBarrel
The barrel is a cylindrical container that holds the mainspring. The barrel is connected to the winding mechanism. The winding mechanism rotates the barrel, which in turn winds the mainspring.
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, Hacking secondsHacking Seconds Hacking seconds is a feature found on some mechanical watch movements which allows the wearer to stop the second hand by pulling out the crown. This allows the wearer to set the watch to a precise time.
[Learn More], Original Straumann HairspringHairspring
The hairspring is a thin spring in a mechanical watch movement that is connected to the balance wheel. The balance wheel oscillates back and forth at a consistent rate, and the hairspring helps regulate these oscillations. The hairspring works by applying a restoring force to the balance wheel, which helps to keep the balance wheel oscillating at a consistent rate. The hairspring is also known as a balance spring.
[Learn More]®, Interchangeable Moser escapementEscapement
The escapement is a mechanism in a mechanical watch movement that regulates the release of energy from the mainspring and keeps the watch ticking at a steady rate. The escapement is made up of two main components: the escape wheel and the pallet fork. The escapement is responsible for the ticking sound of the watch, and it ensures that the watch runs at a consistent rate. As the escape wheel rotates forward, it locks and unlocks with the pallet fork, allowing a small amount of energy from the mainspring to be released. This causes the balance wheel to oscillate and the watch to 'tick'.
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Functions: Hours and minutes, small second, Perpetual calendar with date and month, Big date display, Month indicator window, Power reserve indicator, Leap year cycle indicator on movement side
More information right here https://www.h-moser.com/en/
Pictures courtesy H. Moser Cie