As 2022 springs forward and we head towards the big watch events in April, NOMOS has already released two new watches. The NOMOS Tangente Neomatik Platinum Gray in 35 and 39mm. Although the Tangente has been introduced since 1992, the two watches today come with a new dial with the in-house DUW 3001 movement.
At first glance, the grey dial appears similar to the Silver Cut series in the NOMOS line up but the dial is supposed to be of a different shade of grey and it is rhodium plated with a nice grained look. There is also no horizontal polishing which you would find on the silvercut dials. The dial might appear austere but it is in line with the NOMOS Bauhaus design philosophy. Both the 35mm and 39mm dials are essentially the same (more on that below), with the only difference being the case diameter.
The case is very well polished and appears almost mirror-like, however, we will have to wait for a hands-on look at the watch to determine the polishing. The case thickness with sapphire display case-back is 6.9mm for the 35mm version and slightly thicker at 7.1mm for the 39mm. With the stainless steel case-back version, the thickness is reduced to 6.7mm and 6.9mm respectively with the 35mm and 39mm cases. Although I would strongly suggest the sapphire case-back so one can view the decorated movement!
NOMOS is one of the few independent watch companies that produce their own movements (in case you haven’t yet, make sure to have a look at our “NOMOS manufacture” video right here). The DUW3001 is as good as it gets at this price point with the decoration it receives and how thin it is – just 3.2mm! The movement plate receives the Glashutte ribbingGlashütte Ribbing A decorative pattern of lines on the plate and bridges of the movement, named after the town of Glashütte where it originated. Similar (yet different) to the better known Geneva Stripes. with nice beveling at the edges and a nice skeletonizedSkeletonizing A decorative technique that involves removing some of the material from the movement parts to create a see-through effect, often used on the plates and bridges. [Learn More] rotor that showcases the movement. It beats at 21,600 per hour or 3Hz with a power reserveRéserve de marche Also known as Power Reserve. A watch's power reserve refers to the amount of time a mechanical watch can run without being wound. The power reserve of a mechanical watch can vary depending on the size of the mainspring, the efficiency of the gear train, and the rate at which the mainspring releases energy. If a watch has a Power Reserve 'complication' it simply means that the status of the power reserve can be seen on the watch itself (either on the dial or movement side of the watch). [Learn More] of 43 hours.
Looking at the two dials, I would pick the 35mm Tangente 189 with the sapphire display back as the dial is more symmetrical to my eye compared to the 39mm with the sub-seconds dial leaving less of a gap.
When determining which size to get, also keep in mind the NOMOS watches wear larger than most in part also due to the longer lug design.
Both watches are available now with the 35mm Tangente retailing for 2,740 EUR with sapphire case-back and 2,440 EUR with steel case-back. The 39mm Tangente retails for 2,880 with sapphire case-back and 2,580 in stainless steel case-back.
Keep an eye on the website, as we will be having a much closer look at the watching in the very near future for a detailed hands-on review.