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Hands-On: Grand Seiko SBGW258. The Dress Watch Perfected? (VIDEO)
(SBGW259, SBGW257)

This is the Grand Seiko SBGW258, brother of the SBGw259 and the SBGw257. This is a watch released by Grand Seiko to celebrate it’s 60th anniversary. If you want to see what this watch is all about, simply click below to check out our hands-on video review:

As this is an anniversary themed release, grand Seiko has essentially recreated its very first watch. As a result, the design of this watch is not an unfamiliar one as it looks very similar to the initial release now sixty years ago. Note also that in 2017 Grand Seiko in fact released a similar recreation with the same dimensions as this one. At that time for celebrating another milestone in Grand Seiko’s history. That particular release had a solid caseback and was a limited edition, but is otherwise very similar indeed.

This particular edition is a non limited release. It also comes in two other variations, a platinum and a titanium version. I personally love yellow gold for this style of watch. A classic themed, no date, dress watch. This is a dress watch, so size is key here and I believe the change to upgrade the case diameter to 38mm compared to the original 35mm from 1960 suits this watch perfectly. The thickness is also kept to a nice 10.9mm – not ultra thin – but perfect for this type of watch and the overall proportions of this watch will work for pretty much any wrist.

The watch is as much an anniversary model as it is a celebration of the skills mastered at Grand Seiko. The initial watch released in 1960 was essentially a tour de force by Grand Seiko. It was created at that time to represent the very best in watchmaking. To showcase the very best seiko had to offer at the time. As a result, this recreation has some very big shoes to fill.

The extraordinary attention to detail is crystal clear when you look at this watch. The indices and hands are pure Grand Seiko, understated from a distance yet beautifully finished from up close. 

Notice on the dial you will find the text with a reference to the initial model, but also the 8 pointed star. Not to be confused with the five pointed star which signals high accuracy, the eight pointed star highlights that this is a special dial which uses precious metals. In this case that is a reference to the use of yellow gold for the applied indices.

Powering it all is a manual wound caliberCaliber The caliber ('movement') is the heart and engine of a watch. It consists of a number of interconnected components that work together. Energy is transmitted through the gear train, to the escapement mechanism. The escapement mechanism releases this energy in a controlled manner. This drives the gear train, which ultimately rotates the hands of the watch and keeps time. [More Info], as it should be for this style of watch. The movement is the 9S64 caliber. Accurate between -3 and +5 seconds per day with a 72-hour power reserveRéserve de marche Also known as Power Reserve. A watch's power reserve refers to the amount of time a mechanical watch can run without being wound. The power reserve of a mechanical watch can vary depending on the size of the mainspring, the efficiency of the gear train, and the rate at which the mainspring releases energy. If a watch has a Power Reserve 'complication' it simply means that the status of the power reserve can be seen on the watch itself (either on the dial or movement side of the watch). [Learn More]. Fortunately, all that is also visible through the display caseback. 

On the wrist, the watch is an instant yes. The proportions, the thickness and the design, it is a beauty and there’s nothing to fault here. This is the quintessential dress watch. The three fold clasp with the double triggers is nicely made and ensures that this watch feels nice on the wrist. 

This type of watch design is, for lack of a better word, timeless. This watch represents sheer luxury without screaming luxury. 

More info right here at Grand Seiko.

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