We’re looking at a very rare H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Fumé and the beautiful HMC 804 movement. H. Moser & Cie is one of the (few remaining) independent watchmakers out there, this means they are essentially free to do whatever they want. The great news is that they choose to use this freedom to make highly polished & great-looking watches.
The iconic fumé dial has a simple ‘H. Moser & Cie’ logo, classic applied markers & leaf-shaped hands. Funky detail, despite this watch being more Swiss Made than many Swiss Made watches out there, it isn’t mentioned on the dial. Then of course, at 6-o clock, should you not have noticed, there’s a striking & flying tourbillon at work:
The tourbillon is essentially an interchangeable tourbillon module. True to the spirit of Moser’s escapement module philosophy, this module has been conceived with an improved service experience in mind. The module allows for an overall more streamlined service process, meaning much less waiting time. Essentially it allows the module to be assembled & regulated completely separate from the watch. At the time of servicing, the module can then be swapped out with a pre-regulated one instead of having to start from scratch at the time your watch hits the service desk. Genius.
Looking at the other side of the watch, there’s a see-through back. The movement staring back at you is the HMC 804 calibre. Moser’s movements, this one included, are handfinished & decorated, so you know this is going to be a wild ride:
First thing (other than the tourbillon) that jumps out in a great way, is the 18-carat red gold rotor. Looking a bit closer, you will also note the skeletonised bridges for the tourbillon which add a lot of visual spice to the movement. Not visible, as they’re hard at work, are the double flat hairsprings which are manufactured in-house:
All the bells & whistles that you expect in Haute Horlogerie movement finishing are absolutely here. Most visible are the gold chatons, anglage-a-plenty and the true-to-Moser alternating wide and narrow Geneva stripes:
A closer look at the gold chatons used by H. Moser & Cie, secured in place by three screws:
And notice indeed how the Geneva stripes alternate between wide and narrow stripes, tyical on a Moser movement:
Check out the Moser teeth on the wheels which are an often overlooked yet worthy detail. You can recognize them by the round bottoms as opposed to the usual flat bottoms. Oh and I hear you thinking ‘did he just say Moser teeth?’. Yes, yes he did. In a nutshell, Moser teeth are essentially very efficient & strong teeth, so have a look:
There you have it, up close and personal with the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon:
- 18K white gold case, 42mm diameter, 11.6mm high
- Self-winding HMC 804 calibre
- Minimum 3-day power reserve
- Double hairspring
- One-minute flying tourbillon