Little known fact: GMTGMT A GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) complication is a feature found in some watches that allows the wearer to track two time zones simultaneously. It typically includes a 24-hour hand and a bezel or a second hour hand that can be adjusted independently of the main hour hand to track the time in a different time zone. [Learn More] watches come in all shapes and sizes and also at different asking prices. The under EUR2000 category just got a whole lot more interesting and colourful with this latest release by Seiko. As the name suggest, these watches have a particular design as well and more on that below.
The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series is not a brand new Series for Seiko. However the addition of a GMT complication is as fresh as it gets. This series takes its name from the sharp angular case design and the sharp textured dials they all feature. And this is of course still true for these GMT watches joining the family.
We have yet to judge these watches in the metal, so I will reserve final judgement – however these sure look very appealing. The affordable GMT landscape is interesting. But interesting in a British sense. When discussing new ideas with my British friends and one of them replies ‘Hmm, very interesting’. What that person really means is pretty much the exact opposite of interesting. I do not want to say that the affordable mechanical GMT world is as barren as the Atacama Desert. There are the occasional gems to be found in there, but they are few and far between.
This new series by Seiko is therefore welcomed with open arms. They all share their angular case design and their interesting dial details. As per Seiko they ‘all feature dials with the delicate Asanoha, or hemp leaf, pattern that has been used in Japanese fabrics and elsewhere ever since the Heian period over a thousand years ago. The dials’ sharply edged geometric pattern and rich texture present an ever-changing aspect as the light plays across them at different angles. Each dial is in a different traditional Japanese color; Aitetsu, or indigo iron, Tokiwa, the color of evergreen trees, Sumi-iro, the tone of black Japanese ink, and Hihada-iro, a reddish-brown color first derived from the bark of the Japanese cypress tree.’
The dial rings (rehaut) are in two colors to separate the night and day hours at a glance. This is an interesting design choice, since traditionally the two colors are applied to the external bezel instead. The date is shown on a sub-dial at the six o’clock position and there is a power reserveRéserve de marche Also known as Power Reserve. A watch's power reserve refers to the amount of time a mechanical watch can run without being wound. The power reserve of a mechanical watch can vary depending on the size of the mainspring, the efficiency of the gear train, and the rate at which the mainspring releases energy. If a watch has a Power Reserve 'complication' it simply means that the status of the power reserve can be seen on the watch itself (either on the dial or movement side of the watch). [Learn More] indicator at nine o’clock. Concerning the movement we learn that these watches are powered by the GMT CaliberCaliber The caliber ('movement') is the heart and engine of a watch. It consists of a number of interconnected components that work together. Energy is transmitted through the gear train, to the escapement mechanism. The escapement mechanism releases this energy in a controlled manner. This drives the gear train, which ultimately rotates the hands of the watch and keeps time. [More Info] 6R64, which moves along at 28.8 Hz. Note that the GMT hand can also be used as a dual time indicator, with the hour hand being adjustable even as the minute and seconds hands continue to mark time.
Vibrations: 28,800 vibrations per hour (8 beats per second) Power reserve: 45 hours
Number of jewelsJewels Watch jewels are small, synthetic sapphire or ruby bearings that are used in mechanical watches to reduce friction and wear on moving parts. They are typically made from corundum. They are used as bearings for a.o. the pivots to reduce friction. [Learn More]: 29
GMT function / Independent hour hand adjustment function
Stainless steel case and bracelet with super-hard coating
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
See-through screw case back
Diameter: 42.2mm, Thickness: 13.7mm
Water resistance: 10 bar
Magnetic Resistance: 4,800 A/m
Stainless Steel bracelet with three-fold clasp with push button release Approximate recommended retail prices in Europe: €1,450
SPB217, SPB219, SPB221, SPB225