When I first got this watch, I wasn’t quite sure what to make of it. I had to digest what is being proposed here by Grand Seiko before I could give you my review of this watch. Click below to watch the video and get all the details on this spectacular Grand Seiko release:
The watch has a 44,2mm diameter and is 14,4mm thick with a lug width of 21mm. Lug to lug measures in at approximately 50,8mm. The overall feel of this watch screams quality, it is robust, feels super solid and yes it is a bit bigger boned than most GMTGMT A GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) complication is a feature found in some watches that allows the wearer to track two time zones simultaneously. It typically includes a 24-hour hand and a bezel or a second hour hand that can be adjusted independently of the main hour hand to track the time in a different time zone. [Learn More]’s. More on that in a moment. Now, as this is a seiko diver’s watch, switching off the lights one is instantly reminded of the immortal words of Jerry Lee Lewis: Great balls of fire. My oh my, what else is there to say.
The SGBJ237 features a dark blue dial which is framed nicely by that blue GMT bezel. The hands are finished to Grand Seiko’s typical high standards, absolutely gorgeous. Even the date window, is finished to perfection.
Powered by the calibre 9s86, a hi beat movement with a power reserveRéserve de marche Also known as Power Reserve. A watch's power reserve refers to the amount of time a mechanical watch can run without being wound. The power reserve of a mechanical watch can vary depending on the size of the mainspring, the efficiency of the gear train, and the rate at which the mainspring releases energy. If a watch has a Power Reserve 'complication' it simply means that the status of the power reserve can be seen on the watch itself (either on the dial or movement side of the watch). [Learn More] of approximately 55 hours. Accurate to +5 to -3 seconds per day. A true GMT movement – you can set the hour hand independently without having to touch the minute hand.
Grand Seiko already offers some of my absolute favourite GMT watches on the market. They have GMT’s in all sorts of executions, from classic looks all the way to the sporty looks. As such, This particular model is a fantastic addition to an already very strong family of GMT watches by Grand Seiko. I can’t really think of any other watch brand with such a strong presence in the GMT segment. Now in 2020 Grand Seiko adds this big guy to the lineup, and it absolutely has its place in there. Without any doubt. This looks dramatically different from anything they currently offer here.
This is perhaps one of the most visually pleasing watches I have seen in a while now. The dial looks black most of the time here, but it is in fact a very deep blue, pairing nicely with that white and blue gmt bezel. The blue on the bezel also changes color quite a bit, moving from solid black to a bright blue depending on how the light hits it. The sapphire bezel further adds to the visual interest and really lifts this watch up and sets it apart from any other grand seiko GMT. For the record, I absolutely love this bezel design, it is something truly special and a welcome change from the ceramic bezel trend.
The hands and dial, as mentioned, are just on their very own level. Nobody else within this segment comes anywhere close to Grand Seiko regarding finishing, specifically the dial, hands and indices. Simply sublime. Not only does everything look particularly well finished, it is also all very legible at a glance, which is key for a watch that sits in the sport collection.
The case as well, typical Grand Seiko, beautifully hand-finished. Notice the different finishes, you can see satin finish and then also the unique ZaratsuZaratsu Polishing Zaratsu polishing is a type of polishing technique used in watchmaking, specifically for the polishing of steel components, such as the case, lugs, and bracelet. It is a process that uses a spinning circular disk with an abrasive surface. The craftsperson, holding the watch part, applies a certain level of pressure and uses a specific angle to ultimately achieve a mirror-like finish. [Learn More] polished surfaces. Due to the mix of finishes and the robust case design it certainly feels at home in Seiko’s sport collection.
It is a large watch. It doesn’t wear small but it is well-proportioned. I’d say anyone with a wrist size above 17cm or so should definitely not be afraid to try this on. Any wrists smaller than that, I would encourage you to try this on in the store first before buying. On the wrist it feels great and has that distinct feeling of a high quality tool watch.
Style-wise I think they nailed it here and this is a fantastic GMT watch for anyone looking for something a bit different. The GMT landscape is often reduced to a few models in many people’s search for a luxury GMT. Anyone looking for a well made, highly robust GMT featuring exquisite finishing should certainly have a closer look at Grand Seiko and the SBGJ237 in particular.