Let’s have an extreme close-up look at a gold chatonChaton A chaton is a small, circular metal ring that is used in mechanical watch movements to hold and position a jewel bearing within the bridges. It is typically made of precious metal and is essentially purely decorative in nature. [Learn More] for this brief entry in the Watch Works section. Gold chatons are found on high end watches. They are the most luxurious seat a ruby will ever have.
Nowadays used only for decorative purposes. The ruby (jewelJewels Watch jewels are small, synthetic sapphire or ruby bearings that are used in mechanical watches to reduce friction and wear on moving parts. They are typically made from corundum. They are used as bearings for a.o. the pivots to reduce friction. [Learn More] bearing) is pressed in the chaton, and the chaton itself is often secured in place by screws (three in the Moser case above). Using gold chatons is more time-consuming and costly than simply pressing the jewelsJewels Watch jewels are small, synthetic sapphire or ruby bearings that are used in mechanical watches to reduce friction and wear on moving parts. They are typically made from corundum. They are used as bearings for a.o. the pivots to reduce friction. [Learn More] directly in the bridgesBridges The bridges of a watch movement are the metal plates that hold the wheels and other components of the movement in place. They are attached to the main plate of the movement with screws. Bridges are used to support the balance wheel, the escapement, the mainspring barrel and other elements. Combined with the main plate they are the foundation of any watch movement. [Learn More]. This is why you’ll likely only find these in high end watches. More holes are to be drilled, and many more screws have to be secured in place.
In the case of for example Lange, where they use a lot of gold chatons, that means a lot of extra work & screws:
